Reusable cloth menstrual pads are a practical sewing project for anyone who wants a washable alternative to disposable pads.
They can also be a useful way to repurpose clean cotton fabric, flannel, towels, or other suitable textiles already sitting in the sewing cupboard.
The basic construction is straightforward: a soft layer sits against the skin, an absorbent core catches menstrual flow, and an outer backing helps hold everything together. An optional waterproof layer can provide additional leak protection, while wings and snaps keep the pad secured around underwear.
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The original sewing method uses exactly this layered approach, combining a top fabric, absorbent core, backing fabric, and optional waterproof material before adding snaps or another fastening system.
The most important part is choosing appropriate materials and making pads that can be washed thoroughly and dried completely between uses.
Why Make Your Own Reusable Pads?
Buying ready-made reusable pads is certainly easier, and there are many good commercial options available.
But sewing your own has several advantages.
You can choose:
- The length
- Width
- Wing shape
- Amount of absorbency
- Top fabric
- Waterproof backing
- Fastening style
You can also make several different absorbencies rather than expecting one pad to work equally well throughout an entire period.
For example, you might create:
- Thin liners for very light days
- Medium pads for regular flow
- Longer or thicker pads for heavier days
- Longer nighttime pads
The source tutorial similarly recommends adjusting the number of absorbent layers to suit different flow levels and even suggests using different snap colors to identify them quickly.
Are Reusable Pads Hygienic?
Reusable pads can be used hygienically when they are changed regularly, washed properly, dried completely, and stored clean and dry.
UNICEF includes reusable menstrual pads among recognized menstrual-management options and emphasizes access to clean water, soap, proper washing, complete drying, and suitable storage.
A reusable pad should be clean and fully dry before being worn again.
It should never be shared with another person.
UNICEF guidance also recommends changing reusable pads roughly every 4 to 6 hours, depending on menstrual flow and the product, rather than wearing one pad throughout the entire day.
If a pad becomes saturated sooner, change it sooner.
Do Not Worry About Making the Perfect Pad First
Reusable pads are very personal.
A shape that works beautifully for one person may shift, bunch, or feel uncomfortable for another.
Your first pad should therefore be treated as a prototype.
Make one.
Wear it at home.
See how it fits.
Then adjust:
- Width
- Length
- Wing placement
- Core thickness
- Snap position
Once you find a pattern you like, batch-sewing several pads becomes much faster.
The source tutorial also recommends making several together because cutting and sewing in batches saves time.
What You Need
For a basic reusable cloth pad, gather:
- A pad pattern
- Soft fabric for the top
- Absorbent fabric for the core
- Fabric for the backing
- Optional waterproof fabric
- Sewing thread
- Fabric scissors
- Pins or clips
- Sewing machine or hand-sewing needle
- Iron
- Snaps, press studs, or buttons
A sewing machine makes the project faster, but the original tutorial notes that the pad can also be sewn by hand if necessary.
Choosing Fabric for the Top Layer
The top layer sits directly against the skin, so comfort matters.
Good possibilities include:
- Cotton flannel
- Soft cotton jersey
- Smooth woven cotton
- Other soft washable fabrics intended for clothing or skin contact
The original tutorial specifically suggests cotton, jersey, cotton flannel, and cotton fleece for the top layer.
Choose something soft rather than rough or heavily textured.
Prewash new fabric before sewing.
That helps remove manufacturing residues and allows the fabric to shrink before you cut the final pad.
Can You Use Old Clothes and Towels?
Yes, provided they are clean and in good condition.
Suitable upcycled materials might include:
- Clean cotton shirts
- Flannel pajamas
- Cotton sheets
- Towels
- Cotton muslin
- Reusable diaper inserts
The source project itself began as a way of reusing old textiles and towels rather than throwing useful material away.
Avoid fabric that:
- Smells musty
- Contains mildew
- Is heavily stained with unknown substances
- Has been exposed to chemicals
- Is deteriorating
- Cannot tolerate repeated washing
Upcycling is useful only when the material is still appropriate for its new purpose.
Choosing the Absorbent Core
The core does most of the work.
Possible absorbent materials include:
- Cotton terry toweling
- Cotton flannel
- Bamboo absorbent fabric
- Hemp blends intended for absorbent sewing projects
- Clean reusable diaper inserts
The number of layers depends heavily on the fabric.
A thick towel layer may absorb much more than one layer of lightweight flannel.
That is why there is no reliable universal rule such as “three layers for medium flow.”
Instead, make samples and test them.
Test Your Fabric Before Sewing Ten Pads
Take a measured amount of water and slowly pour some onto a sample of your intended core fabric.
Watch:
- How quickly it absorbs
- Whether liquid runs off the surface
- How much it holds
- How bulky it becomes when wet
This is not a perfect substitute for real use, but it can reveal obvious problems before you sew an entire set.
Some fabrics that look absorbent are surprisingly poor at moving liquid away from the surface.
Do You Need a Waterproof Layer?
Not necessarily.
Some people prefer breathable all-fabric pads and simply change them frequently.
Others want additional leak protection.
An optional waterproof layer can be inserted between the absorbent core and outer backing.
The source tutorial recommends materials such as PUL or waterproof nylon for this purpose.
PUL, or polyurethane laminate, is commonly used in reusable diaper and menstrual-product sewing because it combines fabric with a waterproof coating.
If you use PUL, follow its care instructions carefully.
Very high heat can damage some laminated fabrics.
Avoid Improvised Waterproof Materials You Cannot Identify
An old waterproof bib or similar item may look useful, but only reuse it if you know what the material is and whether it tolerates repeated washing.
Avoid inserting:
- Plastic shopping bags
- Unknown plastic sheeting
- Cracked waterproof coatings
- Packaging plastics
- Materials not intended for repeated textile use
The pad needs to remain flexible, washable, and comfortable.
Buying a small amount of known PUL can be more practical than guessing what an unknown waterproof material contains.
Choosing the Backing
The bottom layer sits against the underwear rather than directly against the skin.
You can use:
- Cotton
- Flannel
- Cotton print
- A fabric backed with PUL
A patterned cotton is a nice way to use smaller fabric scraps.
Consider choosing different prints for different absorbencies.
That makes it easier to tell your light pads from heavier ones without examining the core.
Create Your Pattern
You can use a downloadable cloth-pad pattern or create your own.
An easy starting point is a disposable pad whose fit you already like.
Place it on paper and trace around it.
Add wings wide enough to wrap around the underwear.
Remember that you will need seam allowance if you plan to sew the pad right sides together and turn it out.
Make Two Pattern Pieces
It is useful to have:
Outer pattern: includes the complete pad and wings.
Core pattern: smaller and fits only through the central absorbent portion.
This is the same approach used in the source tutorial, where the outer template is used for the top and backing while an inner template defines the absorbent core.
Step 1: Cut the Outer Layers
Using the larger pattern, cut:
- One top piece
- One backing piece
If using PUL, cut a matching waterproof piece according to your design.
Take care when pinning waterproof fabric because every pin creates a hole.
Fabric clips can be useful instead.
Step 2: Cut the Absorbent Core
Use the smaller pattern to cut the required number of absorbent layers.
Stack them neatly.
You can secure them together with:
- Straight stitching
- Zigzag stitching
- An overlocker or serger
The edges do not have to look beautiful because the core will be hidden inside the finished pad.
The source tutorial uses both overlocking and a small zigzag stitch as possible ways of constructing the core.
Step 3: Attach the Core to the Top
Place the absorbent core against the wrong side of the top fabric.
Center it carefully.
Stitch through the top and core to secure the layers.
You can sew:
- One central line
- Parallel rows
- Gentle curves
- A simple outline around the core
The original method quilts several lines through the core to hold all the layers securely in position.
Avoid excessively dense stitching because every seam compresses the absorbent material somewhat.
You need enough stitching to stabilize the pad, not cover the entire surface in thread.
Step 4: Assemble the Pad
Place the top and backing fabrics right sides together.
If you are using a separate waterproof layer, position it according to your chosen construction so it will end up between the absorbent portion and the final outer backing.
Pin or clip the layers.
Leave an opening of roughly 2 inches, or 5 centimeters, along a relatively straight part of the edge.
The source construction similarly leaves approximately a 5 cm opening so the finished pad can be turned right-side out.
Step 5: Sew Around the Outside
Sew around the pad using your chosen seam allowance.
Move slowly around the wings and curves.
Backstitch near both sides of the turning opening so the seam does not unravel while the pad is being turned.
Trim bulky seam allowance if necessary, being careful not to cut through the stitching.
Clip inward curves carefully where needed so they sit neatly after turning.
Step 6: Turn the Pad Right-Side Out
Reach through the opening and carefully pull the pad through.
Do not yank aggressively, especially if you have used waterproof fabric.
Use a blunt turning tool, chopstick, or knitting needle to gently push out corners and wing edges.
Avoid puncturing the fabric.
Step 7: Press Carefully
Smooth the pad flat.
If it contains only cotton fabrics, you can press according to the fabric’s normal requirements.
If it contains PUL or another waterproof laminate, use extra caution.
High heat can damage waterproof coatings.
The source tutorial also specifically warns against using an excessively hot iron when PUL is present.
When in doubt, follow the waterproof fabric manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 8: Close the Opening and Topstitch
Fold the raw edges of the turning opening inward.
Topstitch around the entire perimeter of the pad.
This:
- Closes the opening
- Strengthens the edge
- Gives the pad a cleaner finish
- Helps the layers lie flat
Take your time around the wings.
You want them to remain flexible enough to wrap comfortably around underwear.
Step 9: Add Snaps
Wrap the wings around the underwear to determine where the fasteners should meet.
Mark the position.
Install:
- Plastic snaps
- Metal press studs
- Buttons and buttonholes
Plastic snaps are particularly convenient because they are lightweight and easy to open and close.
The source tutorial also uses snaps as the final fastening method.
Test the placement before installing the fastener permanently.
If the wings are too loose, the pad may slide.
If they are too tight, the underwear can bunch.
Wash New Pads Before First Use
Once sewing is complete, wash the pads before wearing them.
This removes:
- Fabric dust
- Handling residue
- Loose fibers
It may also improve absorbency in some new fabrics after manufacturing finishes have been washed out.
Dry them completely before storing.
How Many Reusable Pads Do You Need?
There is no universal number.
It depends on:
- Menstrual flow
- How often you change pads
- Whether you have access to laundry every day
- Drying conditions
- Whether you use other menstrual products
A practical collection might include several pads in different absorbencies plus enough extras to use while another batch is being washed and dried.
UNICEF emphasizes that reusable products depend on access to adequate washing, drying, and storage facilities.
Start with a few before sewing twenty.
You may discover that you want a different shape after wearing the first batch.
How Often Should You Change a Reusable Pad?
Change it regularly and whenever it becomes saturated or uncomfortable.
UNICEF guidance suggests approximately every 4–6 hours, depending on flow and product quality.
Heavier flow may require much more frequent changes.
Do not judge only by the clock.
What to Do With a Used Pad Away From Home
Carry a small waterproof wet bag or another washable leak-resistant container.
After removing the used pad:
- Fold the soiled surface inward.
- Snap the wings around the folded pad if your design allows.
- Place it into the wet bag.
- Wash it once you return home.
Do not store a wet used pad for extended periods if you can avoid it.
How to Wash Reusable Cloth Pads
Reusable pads need thorough washing.
The original article recommends cold rinsing or soaking before laundering, particularly when the pad contains a substantial amount of blood.
A simple routine is:
1. Rinse or Soak in Cold Water
Cold water helps remove fresh blood before washing.
UNICEF guidance specifically recommends soaking used reusable pads in clean cold water before washing them with soap.
Change the water as necessary.
2. Wash With Soap or Laundry Detergent
Wash thoroughly according to the fabrics used.
If machine washing, follow the temperature limits of the most delicate component—particularly PUL or another waterproof layer.
3. Rinse Properly
Excess detergent left in fabric can be irritating for some people.
Make sure the pads are thoroughly rinsed.
4. Dry Completely
This step matters.
UNICEF recommends drying reusable pads in a clean, ventilated place.
Do not put a damp pad back into storage.
Moist fabric encourages unwanted microbial growth and odors.
Do You Need Vinegar, Salt, Lemon Juice, or Peroxide?
Not routinely.
The source article lists several traditional soaking additions, including vinegar, lemon juice, salt, and peroxide.
But a complicated homemade soaking solution is usually unnecessary.
Clean cold water followed by thorough washing with an appropriate laundry detergent is a simpler routine.
Certain chemicals can also fade fabrics or damage waterproof layers.
Before applying stain removers, bleach, peroxide, vinegar, or other treatments, check the care instructions for every material in the pad.
Avoid Fabric Softener on Absorbent Layers
Fabric softener can leave coatings on fibers.
That may reduce the absorbency you worked so hard to build into the pad.
A simple detergent wash is usually preferable.
Likewise, avoid routinely using products that leave heavy residues on the fabric.
Stains Do Not Automatically Mean the Pad Is Dirty
Menstrual blood can stain natural fibers.
A faint permanent stain does not necessarily mean that the pad has not been properly washed.
Focus on whether it is:
- Thoroughly cleaned
- Well rinsed
- Completely dry
- Free of unpleasant odor
You can reserve darker fabrics for the top layer if visible staining bothers you.
Store Reusable Pads Completely Dry
Once clean and dry, keep pads in a clean, dry place.
A fabric pouch, drawer, or clean storage box can work.
Do not seal damp pads inside an airtight container.
UNICEF’s menstrual-hygiene guidance identifies both drying facilities and appropriate storage as important parts of safely using reusable menstrual products.
Never Share Reusable Pads
Even after washing, a reusable menstrual pad should be a personal item.
UNICEF specifically advises that reusable pads should not be shared.
If you sew pads as gifts, give unused new pads rather than passing along your own previously used ones.
When Should a Cloth Pad Be Replaced?
There is no exact lifespan that applies to every homemade pad.
Replace one when:
- Fabric is badly worn
- Seams are coming apart
- Snaps no longer work
- Waterproof backing has cracked or delaminated
- Absorbency has noticeably declined
- Persistent odor remains after proper washing
- Holes develop
- It no longer feels comfortable or secure
A well-made pad may last through many wash cycles, but it is still a textile item that eventually wears out.
Make Several Absorbencies
Once your first design works, create a small set.
For example:
Light
A soft top with a thin absorbent core.
Regular
A few additional absorbent layers.
Heavy
A larger core with greater absorbency and optional waterproof backing.
Night
Longer coverage toward the back, with absorbency adjusted to your needs.
Rather than relying on a fixed number of fabric layers, test each combination because materials vary dramatically in thickness and absorption.
Batch Sewing Makes the Project Much Faster
Once you have a pattern that fits well, turn the project into a small production line.
Cut all top pieces.
Then all backing pieces.
Then all cores.
Sew every core.
Assemble every outer pad.
Turn them all.
Topstitch them all.
Finally, add all the snaps.
This is much quicker than making one complete pad from beginning to end before starting the next.
A Practical Reusable Sewing Project
Reusable menstrual pads do not need elaborate patterns or expensive specialist equipment.
At their simplest, they are carefully constructed layers of:
soft fabric + absorbent fabric + optional waterproof protection + a secure fastening system.
That simplicity makes them a useful project for learning basic sewing and for giving clean, suitable fabric another purpose.
Start with one pad.
Choose materials carefully.
Test the fit and absorbency.
Adjust the pattern.
Then sew more once you know what works.
Most importantly, treat washing and drying as part of the design from the beginning. A reusable pad is only truly practical if it can be cleaned thoroughly, dried completely, and comfortably used again.
With a good pattern and a little experimentation, you can build a washable set that fits your own body and routine far better than a one-size-fits-all sewing pattern ever could.